Category Archives: Restaurants

Gravlax-ation

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Smoked Salmon is great and all, but Gravlax is my favorite cured salmon preparation. It’s Swedish, you know.

Wi nøt trei a høliday in Sweden this yër?

 

Cured in a mixture of Dill, Salt, Sugar, and other spices,  its product has a cleaner, distinctive taste that’s not obscured by a smoky flavor.

See the løveli lakes

 

Making it is easy.  My mother would make it for us-  two full salmon filets, covered in salt, pepper, sugar, coriander, fennell seeds, and dill, pressed together (flesh side facing each other), and held down with weights.

The wøndërful telephøne system

 

Over three days the salmon would release liquid from the curing process, until it was ready to eat.

And mäni interesting furry animals

 

Go ahead, be ambitious and make it one week instead of buying lox from the bagel spot for $40 a lb. It’s easier than you think, it’ll taste better thank store-bought, and your friends will think you’re Scandinavian as hell.

Including the majestik møøse

 

The Gravlax tartine pictured above is one of  the smørrebrøds (open-faced sandwiches) offered at Vandaag in the east village. Rounding out the gravlax were local beets and pickled veggies.

A Møøse once bit my sister…

 

Nice move, Vandaag.

No realli! She was Karving her initials on the møøse with the sharpened end of an interspace tøøthbrush given her by Svenge – her brother-in-law – an Oslo dentist and star of many Norwegian møvies: “The Høt Hands of an Oslo Dentist”, “Fillings of Passion”, “The Huge Mølars of Horst Nordfink”…

Lobstah Roll

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I’m here spending the July 4th weekend on Cape Cod.  I had never been out here before, and have to admit that its now one of my favorite spots in New England. We’re right on one the bays, and we’ve spent the last two days kayacking, laying in hammocks, sailing on sunfish, and eating the monstrously delicious Lobster Roll pictured above (and below)

That my friends, is a lobster roll from the Raw bar in Popponessett.  It’s rated as one of the best Lobster Rolls in New England.  I’d tend to agree.  As far as sheer amount of lobster used in a roll goes, this one handily wins.  It’s a banana split sunday made with lobster, mayo, and bread.

My one gripe?  The sides of the roll aren’t buttered and toasted on a griddle, as i’ve had elsewhere in MA.  I think it would add something to the texture and flavor of the roll in general.

The roll is $25, but stuffs 2 people, effectively making $12.50 per person.  I’m guessing this thing has more than 1 lobster’s worth of meat in it.

The restaurant itself plays the part of a new england shanty dive bar well enough. They don’t serve fries- you have to get them next door.  you can’t use your cell phone at all, and the closest thing they have to a local beer is sam adams summer ale.  The beer selection could use work, but it’s kind of charming in its uncompromising-ness.  They know what you’re there for, and that’s all that matters.

Now back to doing nothing by the water!

 

Engorgeous Saturday Lunch

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There’s something special about being assaulted with awesome food when you think you’re in store for just a nice, quiet lunch.

Walk by Morrell Wine Bar and you might think its location condemns it as a tourist trap.  It resides smack dab in the middle of Rockefeller center, where tens of thousands of open-mouthed tourists walk by daily, with camera’s pointed up and fanny packs secured around their waists.

Don’t be a jaded New Yorker about it this time.  Stop by on a nice day, get a spot on the terrace, and go to town on Jake Klein’s menu.  It’s got flavor profiles that create bold and interesting matches with it’s ultra deep wine list (over 100 by the glass alone)

My girlfriend and I stopped by for a late lunch last Saturday, ordered some wonderful Txakoli, and let Jake do his thing.

I have a torrid, uncomplicated love affair with Marrow.   If it’s in front of me and looks like the photo above, I eat it.

Marrow’s fascinating to me.  It’s a cheap part of the cow, but a delicacy.  I love that.  I love that some of the cheapest things you can get off of a cow can be the most interesting and delicious.  I’m kind of glad that most Americans would sneer in ignorant disgust at the idea of eating Marrow, sweetbreads, or tripe (more for me).

Speaking of awesome animal body parts, Foie Gras is always welcome in my mouth.  Especially when it’s done a la Torchon. topped with a dab of roasted red pepper puree, it’s a mash up of Girl Talk proportions when paired with the Txakoli.

Same goes with this bad boy:

Honey-cured Salmon reminds me of a sweeter, simpler Gravlax. It’s way more interesting that Sashimi, and compliments the salmon’s buttery flavors.

I could keep talking about how delicious it was, but i think the photos do a better job than my words.

Check out Morrell Wine Bar when you’re looking for a boozy, delicious midtown break

Cortado

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I’m slowly turning into a coffee nerd, which is a bit funny to me.

When I was younger, I thought it tasted like shit. Perhaps it was because I was drinking shitty coffee.

Most people still do.  They drown acrid, burnt brew from Starbucks and Dunkin’ Donuts with milk and sugar until it resembles a melted coffee-flavored milkshake and then go around saying it tastes great.

Not so.

My friends at NYC Velo are ultimately responsible for shifting my attention to good coffee.  As self proclaimed coffee dorks, they always have great beans in the shop.  They appreciated and cultivated relationships with many of the new artisan roasters in the USA, and experiencing them takes you to an entirely new plane of coffee consumption. Naturally, they invested in great machinery (A Giotto and Mini-Mazzer) to make sure the beans were properly transformed.

Every now and then our friend Ben (manager and barista trainer at Think Coffee) would show up and start creating artful concoctions.  He introduced me to my favorite espresso-based beverage, the Cortado.

On the sliding scale coffee-to-milk ratios, the Cortado sits between the Macchiato and the Cappuccino.  Equal parts steamed milk and espresso, typically served in a small low-ball glass.  I think its the perfect balance.  The espresso flavors shine through, and that bit of milk is the perfect compliment.

The drink itself varies from culture to culture.  Head to Cuba and they just toss condensed milk in there for good measure (I’m not complaining…)

Ordering a Cortado is my de facto test when trying out a new coffee spot.   If it’s on the menu, it’s a good sign. If they reply “What’s a Cortado?” well,  not so good.

A few weeks ago I noticed a new coffee joint had opened around the corner from my girlfriend’s place in Astoria.  It looked promising and we were eager to try it.  We finally did this weekend.

The Queens Kickshaw is a great looking concept, and the owners are proper coffee nerds.  Walk in and you’re greeted with shiny new marzocco equipment. They keep it clean.  they dont let grounds sit in the grinder. They have a great drip set up as well.  The coffee is interesting and sourced by local roasters. The food is made up of a focused yet varied grilled cheese menu.

And they make a mean Cortado.

 

 

Mesquito

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Last weekend I spent 4 days traipsing around Austin, TX for SXSW.  It was a magical experience, where awesome technology, smart people, and great food intersected.

I was determined to get shove some great Texan BBQ into my mouth before leaving, and my friend Betsey was willing to oblige me with a visit to one of her favorite spots,  Green Mesquite.

As far as I’m concerned, when you’re down south,  cheap BBQ wins.  The above plate was about 10 bucks. Ribs, brisket, and a quarter chicken (yes, it’s hidden under the mound of meat), accompanied by two sides.  Pair with a Lone Star beer, and you’re all set.

The ribs were perfect, the brisket was delightfully fatty, but the chicken was a bit dry.  The only place I’ve found that BBQ’s a mean chicken is Blue smoke.   I guess that’s why frying is the way to go.

By the way, order the wings as well.